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HERBS IN CONTAINERS
There are many attractive ways to grow herbs in containers, and there are many advantages to this kind of growing. A few small plants often can be more interesting in containers where they can show off than in the garden which might tend to engulf them. If your garden is small or if the herbs will not readily fit into your landscape, planting them in containers is an easy solution. Containers also can be brought indoors or moved about the garden as the sun changes position or as frosts threaten. Almost every herb can be grown in a container if it is planted in proper soil and given the proper sun and water; herbs with tap roots are the only possible exceptions. If you do pot them, be sure that the container is deep enough for the full grown root.
There are many kinds of suitable containers, ranging from ordinary clay pots and wooden planters to unusual and distinctive jars and bowls. Choose one that will fill the needs of the herbs and enhance their beauty.
The container must meet only a few basic requirements, the first and most important of which is drainage. There should be holes or slits in the bottom of the container to let water flow out so that the soil and roots won't become waterlogged. A good container should also be able to withstand constant moistening and drying out.
Most plant containers sold will meet these standards, but do remember them when devising your own containers or choosing one that is not specifically designed for plants.
Any container you use must be clean. Scrub off old potting soil, moss, and stains with hot water and a stiff brush. Rinse or wash new containers in hot water before planting in them.
Unglazed clay flower pots are the most versatile and widely used garden containers. They are available almost everywhere and relatively inexpensive. The earthy, old-world look of unglazed pots goes well with any of the herbs. They come in brick red, yellowish tan, off white, chocolate brown, and in a variety of sizes and shapes.
You can plant one or more herbs in a single pot or grow several in a large one. Or, arrange the containers together a convenient way to grow several herbs near one another that have different culture and water requirements.
Terra cotta strawberry jars are distinctive and well suited for a variety of herbs. They come in sizes ranging from 30-45cm high with six to eight planting pockets at various levels along the sides. Herbs with a tendency to trail are attractive in the pockets while upright herbs or a few showy, large-leafed types such as geranium or mint can crown the top. There also are flatter versions with pockets on only one level.
Clay pots also come in many glazes and colors. If you choose one of these, however, be sure that the color or glaze doesn't clash with the herb's foliage or the surroundings in which it will be placed.
Wooden containers have a mellow appeal, and the color and texture of wood blends well with almost all garden features. These containers can be used as window boxes, on patios, or as part of the landscape. You can buy many types of planters and tubs, or you can easily design and make your own. As an example, a 1m long planter box that is 25cm deep and 25cm wide will hold about six herbs such as rosemary, sweet marjoram, oregano, thyme, parsley, and chives.
Large wooden boxes and tubs that remain in one place for long periods of time without being moved should have cleats or runners underneath them, permitting free water drainage and air circulation to prevent decay.
Hanging containers can display herbs dramatically. A group of culinary herbs hanging outside a sunny kitchen window or door is very convenient when you want a sprig or two while cooking.
Trailing herbs such as rosemary, thyme and dittany are naturals for hanging containers. Others such as basil, marjoram, and sage will also begin to spill over the sides as their stems grow long.
Many clay containers are designed with hooks or other provisions for hanging them. If not, they can be suspended in a net, macrame piece, or by leather thongs.
Though most herbs are sun lovers, benefiting from about eight hours of sun each day, in the garden their roots are insulated from overheating because the plants' leaves shade the soil area in which the roots grow. Containers do not always provide this insulation from heat because the sides are exposed to warm sunlight and drying air. Both of these can quickly dry out the soil, roots, and the plants. A simple way to minimize this danger is to locate your container-planted herbs where they will receive shade during the hottest part of the day. Herbs such as mint, parsley, and sweet woodruff prefer less sun than the others and should be given shade for most of the day with perhaps an hour or two of exposure to the sun in the morning or late afternoon.
When you plant several herbs in one container it is best to plant together only those that require similar amounts of water, sun, and soil conditions. Check the herbal for the needs of the herbs you want to grow. The more vigorous herbs such as mint and lemon verbena should be planted separately or kept well controlled as they tend to overcrowd most others.
Watering
There are no special techniques for watering herbs in containers. If you water from the top, use a garden hose and low pressure or a watering can that has a sprinkler head. Apply water to the container until it begins to run out of the drainage hole in the bottom. Never use a strong spray from a hose. It would wash out soil and expose roots or damage stems. Place the container in a dish or saucer if excess water would harm the floor. During cooler weather, be sure to empty the dish after each watering so that roots and soil won't become soaked.
Another way to water is to set the container in a dish or saucer of water for an hour or so and allow the soil to absorb moisture. When the soil's surface appears damp, the plant has enough water.
Check container plants about every other day - every day in hot weather especially if the container is small or porous. If the soil just beneath the surface is dry, water the herbs. Never allow soil in a container to dry out completely. If it does the root ball will shrink, and when you water it will just run over the surface of the soil, down the inside and out the drainage holes without being absorbed. If the soil gets in this condition, loosen the dry soil ball with a stick or screw driver, then soak the soil thoroughly for several hours.
A simple method for determining when a clay pot needs watering is to gently tap the side of the pot with a stick of wood : a dull thud indicates moist soil, no more water is necessary; a clear tone like that of an empty pot indicates a dry soil mass that has contracted and allowed an air space between the soil and the pot itself.
Potting and Transplanting
To get new plants from nursery containers into their permanent containers or to transplant them from one container to a larger one, place one hand on top of the container that the plant is in with its stem between your index and second fingers. Then, grasp the bottom with the other hand, invert the pot, and tap the rim sharply against the edge of a bench or table to loosen the root ball. Lift the pot away from the plant, steadying the roots with the hand the plant is in. (If the soil isn't moist enough, it will fall to pieces.)
A well-drained porous potting soil mixed with a little bonemeal is the best potting medium for herbs. If you mix your own, use equal parts of topsoil, sand, and ground bark, leaf mold, or peat moss and 1 teaspoon of bone-meal per 15cm pot. Fill the container so that when you place the plant inside, the surface of its root ball will come to within about 2.5cm of the pot's rim. Firm the soil in well around the root ball and water thoroughly so that both the new soil and the root ball are evenly moist. It is a good idea to set newly potted plants in the shade fora few days until they become adjusted to their new environment.
If, after four to six months, you notice that a plant is no longer growing vigorously and seems to wilt quickly, despite what should be adequate watering, or if the roots begin to twine out of the drainage hole, remove the plant from its container and see if the roots have formed a tight network around the outside of the soil ball. If so, gently loosen the root system, remove old soil that is loose, and repot the plant into a larger container as described above.
Many herbs such as chives and mint grow larger by sending up new sprouts or runners. This new growth can be separated from the main root system gives you small new plants for other containers or the garden. Dittany and sage tend to layer themselves and each rooted stem can be cut apart from the main plant to produce several plants and reduce the size of the original.
Seedlings from the garden can be dug up and potted as soon as they have formed four true leaves. Leave some of the garden soil around the roots to form a root ball; place the plant into a container; then fill in around the roots with potting soil according to the directions given above.